August 27, 2017 August 27, 2017/
Ever sit in your stylists chair and have no idea how to describe what you want? You and your stylist are trying to come to a solution and you feel like a deer in headlights? I've had clients show me pictures of golden highlights when they're saying the want ashy tones, and request a balayage when showing me pictures of a double process platinum blonde. Don't feel bad because it actually happens all the time, and it's not your job to know how to request the right technique. This is going to be the first of 3 posts, so follow along to learn about the proper terminology and how to get what you want out of your hair color service! This first post is going to be all about BLONDES! All of the terminology I will be talking about below will be based on blondes who are already a level 9 or lighter (being as close to the lightest blonde as possible is the best way to achieve these requests). This post is meant to help you understand and be on the same page as your stylist, not to go into the salon and tell them you want a level 10 ash violet blonde glaze with level 7 lowlights weaved every 3 foil and then root shadowed for 5 minutes...you get the point. :) Check out this video on how I transformed my clients hair to a bright blonde, with no damage!
One thing to keep in mind about all the photos below is that every hair color looks different even though sometimes the exact same tones, formulas and techniques are used. Everyones hair is different, reacts differently and has had a different hair history, yeileding different results for each person. COOL BLONDEIf you like blondes that have icy, gray, ashy, or pearl tones to them, that means you prefer a cool toned blonde. If your skin tone has more pink, blue or red undertones cooler blondes will look best on you! When asking for a "cool" toned blonde, tell your stylist that you like your color to be more on the ashier side. This type of color usually takes a few visits to achieve even if starting out blonde, because you have to eliminate all warmth from the hair. To achieve cooler toned results I do heavy highlights, bring the hair to a level 10 blonde with no remaining pigment or warmth. After the highlights are rinsed I tend to use a toner such a level 10 ash. This type of color is usually somewhat damaging to the hair because you are taking your natural color as light as possible. All of the posts below are "ash blonde"
To achieve this pearl blonde color: ask for heavy highlights, and a toner with natural ash base.
Slightly more ashy than the 1st color, for this type of result: ask for highlights with a ash toner.
Even ashier than both photos above. This client has level 7 ash lowlights with heavy highlights. To acheive this tone: ask your stylist to over compensate and make your color as ashy as possible, almost on the grey side.
First, I want to say that warm blondes do not have to mean brassy. I feel like so many clients are afraid of asking for a warmer toned blonde because of bad experiences or fear of having the unwanted yellow, orange hair color. Golden toned blondes can be very beautiful and also appear brighter, and shinier than ashy blondes. If you are drawn to buttery, honey, golden or bronze tones, you like warm blondes! This color works well with gold, peach or yellow skin tones. If you're nervous about having a warmer toned blonde, ask your stylist to ease into it. Start with a more neutral color, having neither ash or warm based tones, this is right in the middle. Then I would add just a dab of gold mixed in. You can add more of the gold each time. One tip is to use purple shampoo once a week or every other week with warmer blondes to prevent the color from looking too brassy! Here are some examples of "warm" blondes. Again starting from the least warm, to most warm. :
A perfect example of a creamy buttery blonde. This color is right in the middle of warm and cool, yet still not super golden. For this color: I did highlights, bringing them to a level 10 but not white. Then glazed her with a level 10 natural blonde. I added a little ash to prevent the color from looking too brassy long term.
This beautiful lady has a slightly more golden tone than the previous color. We do highlights with lowlights of a level 8 brown gold. And I glaze her with a level 10 gold toner!
This clients hair is definitely a lot more golden! She almost has a strawberry tint to it. We do a ton of lowlights to create different tones, of a level 7 gold, with a few highlights. I then glaze her with a level 10 "brown" gold!
Neutral blondes are right in the middle of cool and warm. I like to think of neutral with beige, creamy, or wheat tones. This is the perfect way get a balance of cooler and warm tones! You could also try adding lowlights of a neutral color if you're currently platinum or light blonde. That way you get a mixture of tones, which is a great way to ease into a new shade of color! Here are some examples of neutral blondes:
This client has a neutral tone, with highlights and lowlights! She has a variation of tones with pops of brighter blonde, and lowlights of a level 7. Her overall glaze was a level 10 ash to prevent unwanted warmth from her previous color.
This is a great example of a light neutral blonde! This color has beige tones, and was created with highlights and then glazed all over with a level 9 neutral blonde!
Honestly, double process blondes are not my favorite. This involves lightening the hair all over...on the scalp with bleach, no foils. This type of color is as blonde as blonde can be. Bleach is applied directly to the scalp which I believe is damaging, and gives the illusion of one color, leaving none of your natural color. This usually has a harsh line of demarcation when it grows out and rarely looks natural. Personally, I don't believe this is the best type of blonde to request because of damage. IF this is your desired color, make sure your hair is in the most healthy condition and be prepared for breakage with time.. especially around the hairline. Plan on being in the salon every 4 weeks, spending at least $150+ Make sure your stylist is not overlapping bleach. I would recommend to use cotton between each section to keep the color from overlapping. Double process platinum blonde works well with fair skin and light features. However, sometimes other skin tones can pull this off. Think Kim Kardashian when she went platinum blonde. I personally do not perform this service, because of the risk of damage. To request a healthier version of this look: ask your stylist to do very very heavy highlights trying to eliminate most of your natural color in between foils and then glaze with an ash based toner. This will most likely take a few visits. This color was done with heavy highlights, little dimension left, and an violet based ash glaze.
A base break or high lift blonde is similar to a double process blonde however rather than using bleach, hair color is used to "break" up the natural color left between highlights. A base break is more gentle on the hair than a double process done with bleach, but still doesn't provide a natural outgrowth. This process involves highlighting the hair, processing, rinsing out the highlights, towel drying the hair and then applying hair color at the root for a few minutes to further lighten the hairs that didn't get highlighted in a foil. Sometimes this exposes unwanted warmth, because hair color can not lighten the hair as much as using bleach can. This again, is not my favorite process because harsh outgrowth, however I do have a few clients that request this service! You might like a base break/highlift color if you're a fan of a double process blonde, or don't like to see ANY of your natural color after getting highlights. This color would be good for you only if your natural color is a level 7 or lighter. I personally would not do a base break on anyone darker than that wanting to be blonde to avoid exposing unwanted warmth in the hair. Heres an example of a client who gets a highlift blonde vs. a client who gets highlights and has dimension left at the root from her natural color:
Take a look at her root, she does not have any of her natural color, you can see that every piece of hair was lightened. Her natural color is a level 8 and we lighten her with a level 12 ash violet highlift blonde. She gets highlights every 3rd appointment. A beautiful example of a highlift color that is still looks natural and healthy!
This client is also a natural level 8, we just do highlights all over, and you can see the different variations in tones at the root. No highlift color or base break.
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