What is the most practical way to provide GFCI protection for convenience receptacles serving kitchen countertop areas?

Note: This article is based on the 1999 NEC.

Since 1971, the NEC has expanded the requirements for ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) to protect anyone who plugs into an electrical system. Initially, it was only required for temporary wiring at construction sites and in dwelling unit bathrooms, but in recent years the Code requirements for GFCI protection have expanded to include many other areas, including commercial occupancies, fountains and swimming pools, and temporary installations, to name a few. (For a complete list of 2002 NEC references, see the Sidebar at the end of this article.)

Commercial Occupancies

Per 210.8, you must install GFCI protection for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles located in bathrooms, rooftops, and kitchens in commercial/industrial facilities. However, GFCI protection is not required for receptacles installed outside a commercial or industrial occupancy.

In addition, 210.63 requires you to install a 15A or 20A, 125V receptacle outlet within 25 ft of heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration equipment. The only exception to this rule is that you need not install GFCI protection for fixed electric snow melting or de-icing equipment receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a dedicated branch circuit in accordance with 426.28.

Every receptacle installed in kitchens must be GFCI-protected. This new rule sets up an interesting situation. Sec. 210.8(A)(6) for dwelling units only requires GFCI protection for 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles installed to serve dwelling unit kitchen counter surfaces. However, 210.8(B)(3) requires all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles in a commercial kitchen to be GFCI-protected.

Dwelling Units

As noted above, GFCI protection has been required for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles in the bathroom area of a dwelling unit for more than 20 yr.

GFCI protection devices are also required for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles located in garages and grade-level portions of unfinished or finished accessory buildings used for storage or work areas of a dwelling unit [210.8(A)(2)]. However, there are a couple of exceptions to this rule. GFCI protection is not required for receptacles that are not readily accessible, such as a ceiling-mounted receptacle for a garage door opener. Nor are they required for a receptacle on a dedicated branch circuit located and identified for a cord-and-plug-connected appliance, such as a refrigerator or freezer.

What about those receptacles located outdoors? Per 210.8(A)(3), all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles outside of a dwelling unit, including receptacles installed under the eaves of roofs, shall be GFCI-protected. The only exception to this rule is that GFCI protection is not required for fixed electric snow melting or de-icing equipment receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a dedicated branch circuit in accordance with 426.28.

What about crawl spaces and unfinished areas of the basement? Once again, all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles installed within a dwelling unit crawl space [210.8(4)] or in each unfinished portion of a basement not intended as a habitable room but used for storage or as a work area [210.8(5)], must be GFCI-protected. However, the Code does note a few exceptions to these rules: GFCI protection is not required for receptacles that are not readily accessible or are located on a dedicated branch circuit and identified for a specific cord-and-plug-connected appliance, such as a sump pump.

Don't forget kitchen or wet bar areas. Per 210.8(A)(6), GFCI protection is required for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles that serve kitchen countertop surfaces in a dwelling unit. GFCI protection is not required for receptacles serving appliances like dishwashers, or convenience receptacles that do not supply countertop surfaces. Receptacles installed within 6 ft of the outside edge of a wet bar sink must also be GFCI-protected [210.8(A)(7)]. However, GFCI protection is not required for receptacles not intended to serve wet bar countertop surfaces, such as refrigerators, ice makers, water heaters, or convenience receptacles that do not supply counter-top surfaces.

Receptacle Replacement

What happens when you're working at a previously unprotected location that now requires GFCI protection? It's no longer acceptable to replace an old, unprotected receptacle with a new, unprotected receptacle. Per 406.3(D)(2), you now must install a GFCI-protected device.

What if you come across a non-grounding type receptacle or an old 2-wire NM cable without a ground? These receptacles can be replaced with one of the following:

• Another non-grounding type receptacle.

• A GFCI-receptacle, if marked “No Equipment Ground.”

• A grounding type receptacle, if GFCI protected and marked “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground.”

The equipment-grounding conductor plays no part in the operation of a GFCI, so it will provide ground-fault protection even on a 2-wire circuit without an equipment-grounding conductor.

Permanent Swimming Pools

The Code also requires GFCI protection for luminaries, lighting outlets, circulation and sanitation system equipment, and pump motor receptacles located near swimming pools. Per 680.22(A)(5), all 125V receptacles located within 6 m (20 ft) of the walls of a pool or fountain must be protected by a GFCI. In addition, receptacles that supply pool pump motors and that are rated 15A or 20A, 120V through 240V, single-phase, must have GFCI protection. And you must install a GFCI in the branch circuit supplying luminaries operating at more than 15V. If the pool is equipped with an electrically operated pool cover, this too must be GFCI-protected.

Temporary Installations

In accordance with 527.6(A) and (B), you should always install GFCI devices on temporary wiring systems to protect workers during construction, remodeling, maintenance, repair, or demolition of buildings, structures, equipment or similar activities. All 15A, 20A, and 30A, 125V receptacle outlets that are not a part of the permanent wiring of the building or structure shall be equipped with GFCI protection. If a 15A, 20A, or 30A, 125V receptacle is part of the permanent wiring of the building or structure and it is used for temporary electric power, GFCI protection for workers must be provided.

There is an exception to this rule. In industrial establishments where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified personnel are involved, an assured equipment grounding conductor program as specified in 527.6(B)(2) is permitted for only those receptacle outlets used to supply equipment that would create a greater hazard if power was interrupted or those that have a design that is not compatible with GFCI protection.

Conclusion

Creating safe installations for the public is an important job for any electrical worker. And to that end, the expanding requirements in the 2002 NEC for GFCI-type receptacles go a long way to protect the public and construction workers alike.

Sidebar: 2002 NEC GFCI References

The 2002 NEC now includes GFCI requirements for the following installations:

• Agricultural Buildings [547.5(G)]

• Carnivals, Circuses, and Fairs [525.23]

• Commercial Garages [511.12]

• Dwelling Units [210.8(A)]

• Electric Space Heating Cables [424.44(G)]

• Elevators and Escalators [620.23 and 620.85]

• Fountains [680.51(A), 680.56(A), and 680.57]

• Healthcare Facilities [517.20(A)]

• Hydromassage Bathtubs [680.71]

• Marinas and Boatyards [555.19]

• Receptacle Replacement [406.3(D)(2) and (3)]

• Spas and Hot Tubs [680.43 and 680.44]

• Swimming Pools, Permanent [680.22(A), 680.23 and 680.27]

• Swimming Pools, Storable [680.32]

• Temporary Installations [527.6]

• Therapeutic Tubs [680.62]

For more information, read "Recent Rule Changes for GFCI Protection."

• Inti St Clair/Photodisc/Getty Images

  A modern refrigerator requires a dedicated 20-amp circuit. You may currently have a smaller refrigerator plugged into a general lighting circuit, but during any major remodeling, install a dedicated circuit (120/125-volts) for the refrigerator. For this dedicated 20-amp circuit, 12/2 non-metallic (NM) sheathed wire with a ground is required for the wiring.

  This circuit usually does not require GFCI protection unless the outlet is within 6 feet of a sink or located in a garage or basement, but it generally does require AFCI protection.

• An electric range generally needs a dedicated 240/250-volt, 50-amp circuit. That means that you'll need to install a 6/3 NM cable (or #6 THHN wire in a conduit) to feed the range. If it's a gas range, however, it will only require a 120/125-volt receptacle to power the range controls and vent hood.

  During a major remodel, though, it's a good idea to install the electric range circuit, even if you won't currently be using it. In the future, you may want to convert to an electric range, and having this circuit available will be a selling point if you ever sell your house. Keep in mind that an electric range needs to push back to the wall, so position the outlet accordingly. 

  While 50-amp circuits are typical for ranges, some units may require circuits as large as 60 amps, while smaller units may require smaller circuits—40-amps or even 30-amps. However, new home construction typically includes 50-amp range circuits, since these are sufficient for the vast majority of residential cooking ranges.

  In kitchens where a cooktop and wall oven are separate units, the National Electrical Code generally allows both units to be powered by the same circuit, provided that the combined electrical load does not exceed the safe capacity of that circuit. However, typically the use of 2-, 30-, or 40- amp circuits are run from the main panel to power each separately.

• When installing a dishwasher, the circuit should be a dedicated 120/125-volt, 15-amp circuit. This 15-amp circuit is fed with a 14/2 NM wire with a ground. You may also elect to feed the dishwasher with a 20-amp circuit using 12/2 NM wire with a ground. Be sure to allow enough slack on the NM cable so that the dishwasher can be pulled out and serviced without disconnecting it—your appliance repairman will thank you.

  Note: a means of local disconnection or panel lock-out is required for dishwashers. This requirement is met via a cord and plug configuration or a small lockout device mounted on the breaker at the panel to prevent shock.

  Some electricians will wire a kitchen so the dishwasher and garbage disposal are powered by the same circuit, but if this is done, it must be a 20-amp circuit and care must be taken to make sure the total amperage of both appliances does not exceed 80 percent of the circuit amperage rating. Check with local code authorities to see if this is allowed. 

  GFCI and AFCI requirements vary from jurisdiction to jurisdiction. Usually, the circuit requires GFCI protection, but AFCI protection may not be required, depending on the local interpretation of the code.

• Garbage disposals do the dirty work of cleaning up the messes after meals. When loaded down with garbage, they use a good bit of amperage as they grind up the refuse. A garbage disposal requires a dedicated 15-amp circuit, fed by a 14/2 NM cable with a ground. You may also elect to feed the disposer with a 20-amp circuit, using 12/2 NM wire with a ground. This is often done when the local code allows the disposal to share a circuit with the dishwasher. You should always check with your local building inspector to see if this is allowed in your locale. 

  Different jurisdictions may have different requirements requiring GFCI and AFCI protection for garbage disposals, so check with your local authorities. Including both AFCI and GFCI protection is the safest approach, but because the GFCIs can be prone to "phantom tripping" due to motor start-up surges, professional electrician often omit GFCIs on these circuits where local codes allow it. AFCI protection is generally required since these circuits are operated by a wall switch and the disposal may be wired to plug into a wall outlet.

  Continue to 5 of 7 below.

• The microwave oven needs a dedicated 20-amp, the 120/125-volt circuit to feed it. This will require 12/2 NM wire with a ground. Microwave ovens come in different varieties and sizes. Some are countertop models, and other microwaves mount above the stove.

  Although it's not uncommon to see microwave ovens plugged into standard appliance outlets, larger microwave ovens can draw as much as 1500 watts, and these need their own dedicated circuits.

  This circuit does not need GFCI protection in most areas, but it is sometimes required where the appliance plugs into an accessible outlet. AFCI protection is usually required for this circuit since the appliance is plugged into an outlet. However, microwaves contribute to phantom loads, so you might want to consider unplugging them when not in use.

• Atop your counter-top you will need two dedicated 20-amp, 120/125-volt circuits to run your small appliance loads, including devices such toasters, electric griddles, coffee pots, blenders, etc. Two circuits are the minimum required by code; you can also install more if your needs require them.

  When planning the circuits and the location of outlets, try to imagine where you will place appliances on your countertop. If in doubt, add additional circuits for the future.

  Circuits powering plug-in receptacles serving countertop appliances should always have both GFCI and AFCI protection.

• Of course, a kitchen wouldn't be complete without a lighting circuit to brighten the cooking area. At a minimum, one 15-amp, 120/125-volt dedicated circuit is required to power the kitchen lighting, such as the ceiling fixtures, canister lights, under-cabinet lights, and strip lights.

  Each set of lights should have its own switch, allowing you to control the lighting. Always consider future needs, as well. You may want to add a ceiling fan in the future, or maybe a bank of track lights. For this reason, it's not a bad idea to install a 20-amp circuit for the general lighting use, even though code only requires a 15-amp circuit. 

  In most jurisdictions, a circuit that supplies only lighting fixtures does not require GFCI protection, but it may be required if a wall switch is located near the sink. AFCI protection is generally required for all lighting circuits.

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In older homes that have not had their kitchen's wiring systems updated, it is very common for kitchen wiring to be undersized for the electrical demands of a modern kitchen. It is not uncommon, for example, for a kitchen to have only two or three circuits, and for basic appliances such as the refrigerator, dishwasher, garbage disposal to be powered by the same general-purpose circuit that powers the light fixtures and countertop receptacles. Generally speaking, older wiring systems are allowed to remain in place ("grandfathered in") when a kitchen undergoes modest remodeling efforts, such as simple replacement of appliances, flooring, and countertops. However, during major remodeling projects that require building permits, you may be required to bring your kitchen fully "up to code," and this very likely will require adding several electrical circuits.

During new construction or major kitchen remodeling, the building code will likely require that you bring both the plumbing and wiring systems into alignment with the current code requirements. This often involves adding electrical circuits and adding GFCI and/or AFCI protection. GFCIs have long been required in kitchens, but AFCI protection is a more recent addition.

AFCI protection: Beginning with the 2014 National Electrical Code revision and extended in the 2017 revision, a special type of circuit protection became required for many circuits in the home, including the kitchen. Known as AFCI (arc-fault circuit interrupters), these devices are designed to sense sparking (arcing) that occurs when electricity jumps between faulty wire connections. AFCIs shut down the current flow before a fire can occur.

In kitchens, the best advice is to make sure that all 15-amp and 20-amp circuits have AFCI protection. While this can be provided by special AFCI outlets, it is more typically done by installing circuit breakers with built-in AFCI protection. It's important to note that AFCI protection is different than GFCI protection, and it does not replace those requirements. GFCI (ground-fault circuit interruption) protection, on the other hand, is about protecting against shock.

Many kitchen circuits require both AFCI and GFCI protection. In these instances, an electrician may install combination GFCI/AFCI circuit breakers, or they may use AFCI circuit breakers in combination with GFCI outlet receptacles.

There is by no means consensus on the requirements for AFCI protection in a kitchen. Even within a single jurisdiction, different inspectors may have different interpretations of the requirements. In some areas, any circuit that is served by a plug-in receptacles or wall switches requires AFCI protection, while elsewhere, the requirement is for AFCI protection for all 15-amp or 20-amp circuits, even those serving only hardwired appliances. The only way to be sure is to consult your local authorities before doing any circuit work in a kitchen.

Adding the necessary AFCI protection must be done whenever circuit work is done in the home. A professional electrician may be obliged to add some form of AFCI protection whenever working on a kitchen circuit, even for work as basic as replacing a single outlet receptacle.

Here is a list of the required electrical circuits in new kitchen construction or a major remodel.